Hangzhou was the capital of the Southern Song from 1138 to 1276, and Marco Polo — whether or not he actually went — described it as the finest and noblest city in the world. Today it is a wealthy tech city (Alibaba is headquartered here) wrapped around a lake that has been continuously landscaped for over a thousand years.
West Lake#
The lake is free, open at all hours, and inscribed by UNESCO not for natural beauty but as a cultural landscape — a designed composition of causeways, islands, pagodas and planting that defined the East Asian ideal of scenery and was copied across China, Japan and Korea.
The classic circuit is about 15 km. Options:
- Walk the northern shore: the Bai Causeway, Broken Bridge, and the willows along Beishan Road. Two hours.
- Cycle the full loop on a shared bike (¥1.5/30 min). Two to three hours with stops. The best way to do it.
- Boat to the Three Pools Mirroring the Moon island (¥55–70) — the scene on the ¥1 note.
- Su Causeway, built by the poet-governor Su Dongpo in 1090, crosses the lake north to south with six bridges.
Go at dawn. The lake at 06:30 is misty, empty except for tai chi practitioners, and completely different from the same lake at 15:00.
The "Ten Scenes of West Lake" are a canonical list dating to the Song dynasty — each a specific view at a specific time of day or season, marked by stone tablets. Leifeng Pagoda at sunset (¥40) and Su Causeway in spring dawn are the two worth planning around.
Beyond the lake#
Lingyin Temple (¥45 for the grounds + ¥45 for the temple). One of the largest and wealthiest Buddhist temples in China, founded in 328 CE. The approach passes Feilai Feng, a limestone outcrop carved with 300+ Buddhist figures from the 10th to 14th centuries — the finest such grouping in southern China, and more interesting than the temple itself.
Longjing tea villages. Longjing (Dragon Well) is China's most famous green tea, grown on the hills west of the lake. Take a bus or taxi to Meijiawu or Longjing Village and walk between the terraces. Farmers sell direct; a good pre-Qingming (before early April) harvest is expensive and genuinely special. Beware roadside sellers offering "Longjing" at implausible prices — most tea sold as Longjing is not.
China National Tea Museum — free, well done, next to the tea fields.
Six Harmonies Pagoda (¥20) — a Song-era pagoda above the Qiantang River, which is also where the world's largest tidal bore arrives each autumn (around the 18th day of the 8th lunar month, usually September).
Xixi National Wetland Park (¥80) — quiet canals and boardwalks, a good half-day if the lake feels too busy.
Hefang Street — the restored old commercial street; touristy but good for snacks and traditional shops.
Food#
Zhejiang cuisine is delicate, slightly sweet and fish-forward.
- Dongpo pork — braised belly pork named after the same Su Dongpo who built the causeway
- West Lake vinegar fish — grass carp in a sweet-sour sauce; a famous dish that is frequently disappointing at tourist restaurants, so choose carefully
- Beggar's chicken — clay-baked in lotus leaves
- Longjing shrimp — river shrimp stir-fried with the tea leaves
- Dragon Well tea itself, drunk properly in a lakeside teahouse
Practicalities#
- From Shanghai: 45–60 minutes by high-speed rail from Hongqiao to Hangzhou East. Trains every few minutes.
- Days needed: one night makes a good stop; two nights lets you do the lake at dawn and the tea villages properly.
- Getting around: modern metro, and shared bikes are ideal around the lake.
- Best season: March to May for blossom and green tea harvest, September to November for clear autumn air and the tidal bore. Summer is hot and humid.
Frequently asked questions#
Is Hangzhou worth visiting?#
Yes — West Lake is one of the most influential designed landscapes in Asia, and the surrounding tea villages and Lingyin Temple make a full and varied day. It is also the easiest substantial trip from Shanghai, at 45 minutes by train.
How do I get from Shanghai to Hangzhou?#
High-speed trains run from Shanghai Hongqiao to Hangzhou East in 45–60 minutes for about ¥73, departing every few minutes. It is the simplest intercity journey in China.
How many days do you need in Hangzhou?#
One night is enough for West Lake and Lingyin Temple. Two nights lets you see the lake at dawn, walk the Longjing tea villages and add Xixi wetlands without hurrying.
Where can I buy real Longjing tea?#
Directly from growers in Meijiawu or Longjing Village, in the hills west of West Lake, or at reputable shops in the city. Genuine pre-Qingming Longjing is expensive; anything sold cheaply at a roadside stall or tourist street is almost certainly not what it claims to be.
Is West Lake free?#
Yes. The lake, its causeways and most of the shoreline parks are free and open at all hours. Individual sites within the area — Leifeng Pagoda, the island boat, Lingyin Temple — charge separately.