Yunnan borders Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam and rises from 76 m in the tropical south to over 6,700 m on the Tibetan frontier. It contains more plant species than the rest of the northern hemisphere combined, and 25 of China's 55 officially recognised ethnic minorities. For many repeat visitors it is the best province in China.
The classic route#
Kunming → Dali → Lijiang → Shangri-La, connected by high-speed rail as far as Lijiang and by road beyond. Allow seven to ten nights.
Kunming (1,900 m) — 1 night#
The "Spring City", hovering around 15–22°C nearly year-round. Pleasant rather than compelling; most travellers use it as an arrival point.
Worth doing: the Yunnan Provincial Museum (free, excellent on minority cultures), Green Lake Park, and the Stone Forest (Shilin, ¥130, 90 minutes away) — a 300 km² karst formation of limestone pillars that is genuinely strange and heavily visited.
Dali (2,000 m) — 2 nights#
On the shore of Erhai Lake, backed by the 4,000 m Cangshan range, and the historic centre of the Bai people and the medieval Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms.
- Dali Old Town — restored, touristy, still attractive, and the long-standing centre of China's alternative-lifestyle scene
- Erhai Lake — cycle or scooter the shoreline; the eastern side is quieter and prettier. Roughly 120 km around, so pick a section
- Xizhou — a Bai town north of Dali with courtyard architecture and a good morning market
- Cangshan mountain — cable car up, then a level 11 km path along the mountainside with views over the lake
- Three Pagodas (¥75) — 9th-century, photogenic, expensive for what it is
Lijiang (2,400 m) — 2 nights#
A Naxi town whose old quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage site: cobbled lanes, canals, wooden buildings and — since the 1996 earthquake and subsequent reconstruction — very heavy tourism. It is beautiful and it is crowded. Go early in the morning, and stay in Shuhe or Baisha (quieter satellite old towns) rather than in Lijiang Old Town itself.
- Naxi culture — the Dongba script is the last pictographic writing system still in use
- Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (5,596 m) — cable cars to 4,506 m; take it seriously, oxygen is sold at the top and altitude sickness is common
- Baisha murals — 15th-century frescoes mixing Buddhist, Taoist and Naxi imagery
Tiger Leaping Gorge — 2 days#
The highlight of Yunnan for many travellers. The Jinsha River (upper Yangtze) runs through a gorge 3,900 m deep between two 5,000 m+ massifs. The high trail is a two-day trek of about 22 km with guesthouses along the way (Naxi Family, Tea Horse, Halfway). It is not technical, but the "28 bends" section is a hard climb, and the views are extraordinary.
Do it as: bus from Lijiang to Qiaotou, walk to Halfway Guesthouse (5–6 hours), overnight, walk to Tina's the next morning (3 hours), then bus onward to Shangri-La.
Shangri-La (3,200 m) — 2 nights#
Zhongdian, renamed Shangri-La in 2001 for reasons that are entirely commercial and entirely effective. Ethnically and culturally Tibetan, with a large monastery, grasslands, and — importantly — no permit required, which makes it the accessible alternative to Tibet proper.
- Songzanlin Monastery (¥90) — the largest Tibetan monastery in Yunnan, home to several hundred monks
- Pudacuo National Park (¥180) — lakes, meadows, forest at 3,500–4,000 m
- Napa Lake — seasonal grassland and wetland, with yaks and black-necked cranes in winter
- The old town burned down in 2014 and has been rebuilt
Elsewhere in Yunnan#
Yuanyang rice terraces — Hani terraces cut into the mountains of the south, UNESCO-listed, and at their most spectacular from December to March when they are flooded and reflect sunrise and sunset. Six hours from Kunming; needs two nights.
Xishuangbanna — tropical, culturally Dai (closely related to Thai), with rainforest, Theravada Buddhist temples and a very different feel from the rest of China. Best in the dry season, November to April. The Water Splashing Festival in mid-April is the big event.
Nujiang and Dulong valleys — deep river gorges near the Myanmar border, remote and stunning, for travellers with time.
Jianshui and Tuanshan — a Confucian temple town with superb Qing merchant architecture and very few foreign visitors.
Puzhehei and Luoping — karst lakes, and the vast canola blossom of February and March.
Practicalities#
- Getting there: Kunming Changshui (KMG) is a major hub; high-speed rail connects Kunming–Dali–Lijiang and Kunming–Guilin/Guangzhou. There is also a high-speed line to Vientiane in Laos.
- Getting around: rail for the main corridor, buses and hired drivers beyond. Roads in the mountains are slow.
- Season: March to May and September to November are best. June to August is the rainy season, though the temperature stays pleasant. Winter is dry, sunny and cold at altitude, and it is the season for the Yuanyang terraces.
- Ethnic tourism: approach it thoughtfully. Many "minority villages" are staged commercial operations; markets, festivals and simply staying in a village guesthouse give a far more honest picture.
Frequently asked questions#
How many days do you need in Yunnan?#
Seven to ten nights for the classic Kunming–Dali–Lijiang–Shangri-La route including the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek. Adding Yuanyang's rice terraces or Xishuangbanna pushes it towards two weeks.
Do you need a permit for Shangri-La?#
No. Shangri-La is in Yunnan province, not the Tibet Autonomous Region, so no permit is required. It is culturally Tibetan, sits at 3,200 m, and is the standard alternative for travellers who cannot arrange a Tibet tour.
Is Tiger Leaping Gorge hard to trek?#
It is moderately demanding rather than technical. The high trail runs about 22 km over two days with guesthouses along the route; the "28 bends" climb is the hard part. Reasonable fitness and proper footwear are enough, and altitude is around 2,000–2,700 m.
When should I visit the Yuanyang rice terraces?#
December to March, when the terraces are flooded and reflect the sky at sunrise and sunset. Outside that window they are green or bare and far less photogenic.
Is Lijiang worth visiting?#
Yes, but with expectations set. The old town is beautiful and UNESCO-listed, and it is also heavily commercialised and very crowded. Visit early in the morning, and stay in the quieter satellite towns of Shuhe or Baisha instead.